I want to return/exchange an item.

What’s the difference between nylon and polyester?

What’s the difference between celluloid and Darvic color bands? 

Where can I learn about bird banding?

Is there a bird banding e-mail group  can  join to learn more? 

Where can I get Dave Johnston's "macro net poles"?

What are your special UV resistant rubber bands used for?

What mesh size should I use for small birds?

What mesh size should I use for_raptors or large waders?

What mesh size should I use for the bird I am studying?

What mesh size should I use for Screech Owls?

More on mesh size (abstract)

What factors affect the degree of entanglement of  a bird in a net?

What band size is used for ----?

How do I read a vernier scale?

What is a MODO?  (About four letter bird codes.)

My binocular magnifier's  lenses are slipping down.  Help!

I just received an Avinet spring scale with the tare adjusting knob installed upside down.

Trammel knots keep loosening.

My wing rule stop got bent!

My pole sections don't fit together anymore.

How do I keep the loops up?

How do I push the loops up, and pull them down?

How can I seal (weld) plastic bands?

Which poles should I take travelling?

What knot is used to make mist net webbing?

How many significant figures should I use?

Where can I get telemetry equipment?

Where can I get patagial wing tags?

Why are these trammels different lengths?

Do you carry net guns or rocket nets?

Pointy caliper notes.

A bird (or a bat) escaped from my holding bag.

Why won't my pliers hold bands?

Stan Moore's Northern California raptors.

Can nets be rejuvenated and dyed?

Where can I get a band color sequence generator?

I thought at one time you carried telescoping poles for double-high nets.
Do you still carry them? 
If not, do you know where I might be able to find them?

Where can  I get Potter traps?
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Return & Exchange Policy

If you change your mind about something you’ve purchased from us, or if you accidentally purchased 
the wrong item , we will gladly accept it back for credit, refund, or exchange within six months of 
purchase, under these conditions:

1. If you paid by credit card, we are required to issue a credit to the credit card that originally paid for the 
item.  We will do this after we inspect the item and determine that it’s in re-sellable-as-new condition. 

2. If you paid your original invoice by check, money order, ACH, or wire, or if the item was purchased 
under a Purchase Order, we will issue an exchange or refund, or credit your account, only after inspecting 
the item and determining that it’s in re-sellable-as-new condition. 

3. Shipping (and sales tax in CA and NY) will be added if we send out a replacement item for you.

4. Unfortunately, there is a lot of work involved in receiving returns.   With much regret, we have 
determined that we must reduce any refund by 5% to cover the costs of processing a return.  To repeat, 5% 
will be deducted from your refund if you ordered the wrong item or just changed your mind.

5. We need your written approval to charge any replacement items to the same or a different credit card. 
For convenience you may e-mail this approval; if you want to use the same credit card, there’s no need to give 
the number to us again – just tell us “credit card SALT” (Same As Last Time).

6. Whenever possible, please provide us with the invoice number or customer number of the original order.  One 
way or another, we must find the original invoice before we can process a return for you.

Of course, if an item is defective in any way, the 5% deduction from your refund will not apply .  Because 
different products are treated differently, please call our toll-free number to discuss any faulty items.   We ask that 
you help us to improve our service to you and your colleagues by providing as much detail as possible about 
what went wrong.  Thank you.

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What’s the difference between nylon and polyester?

Polyester is softer, somewhat more durable, and a little
stronger than nylon.  The main advantage of polyester is
that it is quite a bit more fade resistant than nylon.  Also,
nylon has a lot more elasticity than polyester.  For this
reason, we use only polyester trammels and support lines
in our USA made nets, whether the nets themselves are
nylon or polyester.  If you use USA-made nets, you won’t
have to re-adjust your poles in humid conditions, because
the polyester line just won’t stretch like nylon does.

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Where can I learn about bird banding?

Start here Bird Banding Laboratory

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Yup, click here   BIRDBAND

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Here's what Bill Hilton, Jr. has to say about mesh size-

25mm (1") x 50/2
This is the smallest standard mesh size, usually used only for
hummingbirds. Some banders prefer this size for capturing
kinglets and the smallest wood warblers, but birds even as
small as Song Sparrows will sometimes bounce out of this
net; species that take sizes larger than 0 or OA are best
captured with a larger size mesh.

30mm x 70/2
1-1/4" x 50/2
This net works well at capturing typical wood warblers,
wrens, smaller sparrows (Chipping, Field, etc.). Loosely set,
it will capture birds as large as Northern Cardinals, but it
works best for birds that take sizes 0 and 1.

38mm x 50/2 & 70/2
1-1/2" x 50/2
36mm and 38mm mesh is the "all-purpose" size for banders
who can't afford to purchase several different mesh sizes.
Although hummingbird, chickadees, and kinglets may slip
through this mesh, with enough bag it will usually catch  wood
warblers and sparrows, plus most birds that take 1A or 1B
band sizes.

60mm (~2-1/2") x 110/2
This net is ideal for jays, all but the smallest woodpeckers,
mourning doves, robins, grackles, etc. Birds the size of
chickadees and wood warblers can slip through almost without
stopping. In general, this size works well with birds that wear
band sizes 2 through 5.

-Bill Hilton, Jr.
Hilton Pond
Operation Rubythroat

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It depends on a variety of factors-  Exactly what species you are
targetting, and what method you will be using ... mist net, fixed
Dho Gaza, break away Dho Gaza, the behavior of an individual
bird.

If you have netting experience but need help with a
particular raptor-catching problem,  ask the experts on
BIRDBAND.

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We hear this question very frequently, often from someone who is
is going off to some remote exotic locale to begin their, research 
and wants to know which mist net to take.

  We really can't properly answer the question.  Netters acquire 
preferences for mesh sizes from experience.  And conditions 
may at times favor different mesh sizes for the same species. And 
there is overlap in what species each mesh size will catch.  A
smaller mesh in general will catch a larger range of bird sizes. 
The larger mesh sizes start letting smaller birds though the webbing. 
I can, however, with assurance, urge you to take more than one net. 
Better yet, to take several, or more, nets in a variety of mesh sizes. 
Best yet, take more than you possibly think you will need, it may 
turn out to be enough
  If your target species is a small bird, Bill Hilton, Jr's.recommendations 
above should get you close enough for any catchable small bird 
in the world.  You're spending a lot of time and money on the 
expedition, your success depends on catching  birds, usually as 
many as possible.  Ask the experts on BIRDBAND how many nets 
they would take on expedition.
  If you are trying to catch a large species and, need some guidance,
don't wait until the last minute, consult the experts on BIRDBAND. 
  If you are beginning your research locally, and can't decide between
two mesh sizes, get the smaller one first, and go from there.  Better
yet get both mesh sizes so you can compare which is most efficient 
for your bird.

Warning:  You will be happy trying our USA-made nets, 
but you will get spoiled.

-s-

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MESH SIZE AS A FACTOR IN AVIAN 
COMMUNITY STUDIES USING MIST NETS 

Abstract. This study tests the hypothesis that mist nets of different 
mesh size preferentially capture birds of differing masses. Species 
weighing <16 g were more frequently caught in 30 than 36 mm 
mesh nets, while species in the 16-25-g size category were equally 
likely to be caught in the 30 or 36 mm mesh nets. The species 
comprising the 26-50-g and 50-g categories were more often 
caught in 36 mm mesh nets. 

Pardieck, K., and R. B. Waide. 1992. 
Mesh size as a factor in avian community studies using mist nets. 
Journal of Field Ornithology 63:250-255.
 

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What factors affect the degree of entaglement of a bird in a net?

In my experience, there are two major factors which determine the degree of
entanglement of a bird in a net, hence work against its removal: mesh size
and time in net.  Referring specifically to Black-capped Chickadees, which
are easy to remove from a net of the proper mesh size, let me offer the
following:
 

1) Mesh Size - A bird's entanglement in a net is a matter of how much of
itself it can push through or wedge into the net meshes.  The three most
critical parts of its anatomy are its head, bend of wing (carpal area) and
feet.
 

In a 25-mm mesh net, a Black-capped Chickadee easily puts its feet through
the mesh, but very little else, making the bird relatively easy to remove.
 

At 30 mm, the bird may potentially engage more of its anatomy into the net
meshes making removal a little more difficult.
 

However, at 36 mm, a chickadee may easily thrust its head through the net
mesh, as well as more of its carpus, and become a major removal problem
depending on 2) below.
 

2) Time - Most birds in a net wiggle or squirm or otherwise fight the net.
As they hang downward, gravity accentuates their wedging themselves into the
netting.  The longer they have in the net, the worse their entanglement,
especially at larger mesh sizes.
 

If you want easy removal of Chickadees from nets (they really are easy given
proper conditions), use smaller mesh nets, and limit time in the net.
 

Having said that, life is full of compromises.  The use of only 25-mm mesh
nets would limit capture of larger species such as sparrows, thrushes, jays,
etc., because small-mesh nets do not hold larger birds well.  Therefore, many
songbird banders rely on 30- and 36-mm mesh nets to improve holding power of
the net.  If you do that and you are encountering many wee folk such as
chickadees, nuthatches, kinglets and smaller warblers, you need to increase
your visitations to the nets to lessen entanglement of these wee folk to
facilitate their removal.

-Bob Yunick

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What band size is used for ----?

BBL band sizes

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I forgot how to read a vernier scale ... help!

Try these links.

Java applet - Venier

JQR  131.02 Vernier Caliper

 -s-

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Try these links.

Bird Banding Manual Codes

Overview of systems for encoding bird names

USGS Complete Species Table in Alpha Code order

Four-Letter Codes for Birds in B.C.

-s-

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Put the magnifier on smooth hard surface ... anvil, vice anvil, concrete floor.
Tap a pivot rivet LIGHTLY with a medium size hammer until the lenses 
stay up.  If you want the action a little stiffer, tap the other rivet a little.

-s-

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The manufacturer (my father) thinks it looks better the new way.
They scales work properly either way.

-s-

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We have heard that this happens on all imported nets. 
Trammel knots will not loosen on USA made Avinets. 
We assemble these nets ourselves using a secret knot. 
    Using super glue on imported net knots, has been 
suggested, but I have recently heard that cyano-acrylate 
doesn't cure well in this application. In my experiments I 
used a cyano-acrylate catalyst (hardener) which seemed
to work, but it may be hard to find.  I found it at Radio 
Shack.
    Instead, you might try clear silicone adhesive/caulk. It's 
flexible when cured and may work better. Try this on an 
old net first, and be sure the stuff has completely cured 
before stowing the net or a big mess will surely result. 
When I get some time I will try it, if you try it before then, 
let me know how it works. 

-s-

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First check to make sure the rule section is straight. If not,
straighten it gently with your hands. Then check the 
squareness of the stop with the end of another Avinet wing 
rule, a machinist's square, or a draftsperson's triangle.You 
may see a very small gap, that's ok, but if the gap is obviously
too large, clamp the rule vertically, stop end up, in a vise 
with soft jaws. Clamp it on the riveted section so the rivets 
won't get stressed  by the following procedure. Leave a 
small gap between the inner face of the stop and the soft jaw. 
With a medium hammer, gently tap the stop down, or with 
the widest screwdriver you can find, pry it up into square. 
Or call to get instructions for sending it back to me. 
I'll repair it ... no charge. 
888 284-6387

-s-

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The problem is probably a connector that got mushroomed 
from frequent pounding in hard ground.  Use a file to remove 
the mushroom. Scroll down to next Q/A to see an old pole 
that has been filed. 

We recently changed from color anodizng to hard 
anodizing the connectors. This makes them much harder 
and should significantly reduce mushrooming.

The open end may have been bashed out-of-round. 
First be sure that out-of-roundness is really the cause. If it is, 
cut off the bad portion with a hacksaw, and deburr the opening. 
Start by removing an inch of tubing, repeat if necessary.

Note: Pounding poles with a hammer will mushroom the 
connectors sooner than using a pole pounder.  Pounding 
with a pole pounder will reduce, but not eliminate mushrooming. 
Pole pounders are handy if you must hike long distances to your 
banding site/s. If the substrate at your sites is soft, you may 
never notice any mushrooming.
 A two pound hard rubber mallet will be kindest to pole connectors 
but it may not provide enough impact in hard gound, it also 
won't be so convenient to carry long distances. When pounding 
poles into hard soils, instead of the connectors mushrooming, the 
mallet will probably start to fall apart. 

The pole points are now hard anodized as well. The point angle 
has been increased and they are now blunter at the tip. These 
improvements should eliminate the tip of the points bending over 
when pounding into very rocky substrates.
-s-

Top

Angle your poles slightly out at the top to provide tension.
Use a hitch in the loop.
The ridge formed by the connector will provide a sure
grip for the top loop.

-s-

Top

Put nail, screw, or bolt through the end of a stick.
Or make something fancier like this from an old 
pole section.

This pole top section has an older color anodized 
connector.  You may have improved connectors 
that are hard anodized gray.

-s-

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I haven't tried one of these but it should work.

ISO-TIP cordless soldering iron

A bander reports that Circuit Specialists shipped his cordless 
soldering iron order promptly.  More on technique later, when I
hear from experienced Darvic welders.

-s-

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Unless you will have to lug poles far afield at your destination,
I think you should use the one inch diameter poles which are much
sturdier and better able to withstand rough treatment by baggage
handlers.  One set 5/8" x 36" (4 top + 2 bot) = just under two pounds.
One set 1" x 36" (4 top + 2 bot) = ~ 4-1/2 pounds

-s-

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What knot is used to make mist net webbing?

English knots, sometimes called single knots, are actually 
bowlines in form. 

-s-

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Significant figure tutorial

Significant figure rules

-s-

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These are not recommendations, it's a list I found
on www.

Telemetry equipment suppliers

-s-

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Sorry, we don't make or distribute wing markers.
Their isn't enough demand, largely because researchers
prefer to make their own tags.
  Find more information about wing tags and other
alernative marking techniques at The Ornithological Council's
"Guidelines to the Use of Wild Birds in Research"-

G. Patagial (Wing) Markers and Leg Tags

-s-

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Previously I had thought that imported nets with uneven 
trammel lengths were simply poorly constructed, now I am not 
so sure. Some imported nets have uneven trammels to begin with, 
but apparently many start out ok but get stretched out of shape
after long use. I have just discovered that this phenomena 
may affect USA-made AviNets as well.
  My current theory is that tethering causes the frame to have 
different stretching characteristics than the trammels.  Hmmm.. I 
have been thinking about how to re-design mist nets to eliminate this 
potential problem. 
  Tethering every trammel so that all support elements are identical is 
not a good solution. Net assembly is already much too labor 
intensive. You won't like the increased cost, and I don't think you 
will like the way a fully tethered net behaves. 
  Using two weaker twines for the frame/tether combination is not a 
good solution either. Doubled lines will behave differently than a 
single line in stretch rate.  Different fatigue rates further complicate 
the matter.
  A realistically possible solution is anchoring the webbing at intervals 
to the frame with small unconnected knots in lieu of tethering. Then 
no part of the frame would receive stretch-resisting help from a tether. 
It would, however, be a radical departure from tradition. It may be 
more difficult to produce nets this way, and I don't know of a knot 
that will do the job. Any knot would leave tag ends, however short, 
flapping in a breeze. If  I can think of a good knot I will try it out 
anyway. 
  Even with all trammels exactly the same, there is no guarantee 
that they will fatigue at the same rate. The higher trammels have a 
leverage advantage over the lower ones. Unless you use poles and 
anchoring methods that result in absolutely rigid support for the net, the 
higher trammels can simply pull poles closer together, the lower ones 
cannot. Depending on your rig, the the lower trammels may experience 
a very different tension than the higher ones.  It could vary from much 
greater tension down to none at all! 
  The bottom line is that I can't think of a way to completely eliminate 
the potential problem of unequal trammel stretching. 
  We have been making USA AviNets essentially the same way 
with the same materials for years. Recently, I heard from one bander 
whose trammels stretched out longer than the frame. So, I am confident 
the problem is a rare one.  If you, however,  have a similar experience, 
with our USA-made nets, please let me know. 
<sam@qty.com> 
  Meanwhile, for whatever reason, there probably are a lot of 
imported nets out there with unequal trammels. If they look good, 
and don't seem to have much UV damage they might be worth 
fixing. More on how to shorten trammels later...

-s-
18 May 2001

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Sorry, we don't carry nets guns or rocket nets.
Aces has Coda net guns and Coda net launchers.

ACES

Also try

Wildlife Materials, Inc.

-s-

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Because you need to measure different things differently than
machinists, our pointy calipers are modified in several ways.
The slender jaws have been ground down and depth guage has
been removed.  The depth stick can be an annoyance when 
present,  and with it gone, the moving jaw needs little force to 
get it moving smoothly. Not visibly noticeable is the light 
adjustment of the gib screws, which helps contribute to the silky 
feel. It means, however, that you must push the jaws together with 
a light, consistent touch to "zero" the instrument. When a machinists 
measure tough, strong steel cylinders OD to 0.001" they bear down 
on the jaws with significant force. When you, a biologist,  line 
up the points with some features on an animal, there is no force at 
all on the jaws. Should you ever use the flats of the jaws to measure, 
let's say a leg diameter, you will use minimal force to avoid deforming 
the relatively soft, weak structure.  So the smooth, easy movement 
isn't just nice, it is an important feature. 
   Back to the gib adjusting screws: Because they are set loosely, 
they are likely to further loosen up with use.  These two tiny 
screws are accessed through little holes in the plastic case on the 
"top" surface where the battery hatch is located.  When the play 
gets too sloppy, "set them down" very lightly with a watch 
screwdriver.  Stop when you first feel them touch bottom, then back 
them off a tiny amount. Too tight and the sliding action will be rough, 
too loose and it will be difficult to maintain a consistent zero. It may 
take several tries at first, to get it just right. Once you have done it a 
few times, it becomes a snap.  I did not use Locktite on the gib 
adjusting screws, because of their small size even the low-strength 
type would make adjusting them difficult.   Zeroing the instrument and 
adjusting the play should be easy to do, now that you know the 
reasons for the modifications and how to make best use of them. 
  Changing the battery.  The battery should last a long time .. years, 
even with frequent use.  When it is time to change the battery, remove 
the little rubber hatch cover and gently shake it out.  If it doesn't 
come out easily, very carefully use a small watch screwdriver to 
gently start it moving side to side. As a last resort, remove the screw 
between the two control buttons, and starting at the bottom, 
carefully lift off the plastic cover.
  Gick stuck to the tracks (sliding surfaces) can make the action 
sticky.  Use a slightly damp paper towel or cloth to remove water 
soluble stuff, sometimes I get in there with a Q-Tip. Then spray a 
small amount of WD40 or something similar on a paper towel to dry 
and lubricate the metal surfaces.  Don't spray anything directly on any 
part of the caliper. The front surface of the beam and capacitative 
sensor it contacts, behind the display, need to be relatively dry to work 
properly. 
  The very slender points could get bent if dropped hard, so please be 
nice to these calipers. Thanks!

-s-

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Sorry!  If the holding bag was supplied with a cordlock, it can be 
used for rapid closure.  Two half hitches are quick and easy to tie,
adding them will provide escape-proof security. (Scroll or click the image.)

-s-

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Exposure to ultraviolet has probably weakened 
the rubber "O" ring.  Just ask for a replacement ring, 
or use a rubber band as a substitute.  The advantage 
of rubber bands is by trying a few different ones, you
can get the exact amount of tension you prefer.

-s-

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Stan Moore's Northern California raptors.

Dear friends --

One listserver member contacted me privately, 
asking about what species are prevalent in my area of 
northern California [around San Francisco Bay], and 
what I could expect to see in a typical trapping day 
and perhaps be able to trap and band. Here is the 
bulk of my reply:

In my area the most catchable birds with bal-chatris 
are in this order:

 Red-tailed Hawk  Buteo jamaicensis
 Red-shouldered Hawk  Buteo lineatus
 American Kestrels Falco sparverius
 Cooper's Hawk   Accipiter cooperi
 Great Horned Owl  Bubo virginianus -- at dusk or 
dawn

Eagles require special permits and are not generally 
trapped by banders. I have assisted in trapping golden 
eagles in a special research project under others' pemits, 
but golden eagles are very wary and usually difficult to trap
in this area with lots of prey available and these local, 
non-migratory birds  tend to avoid conspicuous traps.

Common raptors that are trappable with a dho-gaza and 
Great Horned Owl during the nesting season are pretty 
much all the above plus the following:

 Sharp-shinned Hawk  Accipiter striatus
 Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus
 White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus  -- but this is a 
threatened species requiring special permits, too.
 Prairie Falcon  Falco mexicanus  not common in my area, 
but in drier areas to the west.
 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus  still on the state's 
endangered list and still requiring special permits.
 Swainson's Hawk Buteo swainsoni breeds to the east, 
but threatened species requiring special permits.
 Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis  breeds in the 
mountains to the east and is easy to trap when encountered.

In the winter we have:

 Ferruginous Hawk (Buteo regalis)  hard to trap due to
slowness of response.
 Rough-legged Hawk (Buteo lagopus)  generally docile and 
hard to trap.
 Merlin (Falco columbarius)  trappable with dho-gaza and 
live sparrow or starling.
 Broad-winged Hawk (Buteo platypterus)  migrant only - 
winters to the south and rarely trapped on migration.

Birds commonly trapped on migration at special stations with 
combinations of bownets, mistnets, and dho-gazas capable 
of catching large numbers of birds per day:  The best day 
ever at the local migration station was about 90 birds of 
several species combined, but in some stations around North 
America hundred bird days are regular, and maximum 
numbers of captures  can be over 300 birds in a single day 
(on very rare days).

Here are the common species names of commonly banded 
migrants:

 Red-tailed Hawk
 Cooper's Hawk
 Sharp-shinned Hawk
 American Kestrel
 Merlin
 Red-shouldered Hawk
 Prairie Falcon
 Peregrine Falcon

and others on rare occasions including 

 Golden Eagle 
 Ferrugionous Hawk 
 Rough-legged Hawk 
 Goshawk 

A typical trapping day in the winter I might actually trap as 
many as four of the species in the list at the top. A good 
day is ten captures with a bal-chatri.  Fifteen is the most I 
have trapped in a day with a bal-chatri.  It is certainly 
possible to trap more if things go perfectly.

I band raptors year round.  I have trapped extensively at 
migration stations, but do not emphasize that any more due 
to practice of falconry.

Stan Moore 
San Geronimo, CA 

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B- SAM . . . Happy Monday!

S- The same to you!

B- Is there a reliable way to extend the life of nylon or polyester nets 
by soaking them in some kind of "rejuvenating" compound? 

S- Not that I know of.. nylon and polyester are polymers.  Bacteria, 
chemicals in the atmosphere (ozone,) and other agents can weaken a 
polymer by breaking apart its long molecular chains.  But, not counting 
bats and cows,  a mist nets worst enemy is high energy electromagnetic 
radiation .. ultra-violet light.  Nylon and polyester seems to last 
forever when stored in cool, dry, and dark conditions, but once they
have been degraded by long term exposure to UV, there is no way 
that I know of to rejuvenate them.  There are hairsprays that are 
supposed to protect ones coiffure.  Would spraying mist nets with such 
stuff before they got damaged by UV protect them?  Would you have 
to spray nets before every use?  Only experimention will provide the 
answers.

B- If so, have you considered selling a "Net Rejuvenation Kit" that 
contained such a compound and perhaps a dye that might darken 
faded nets? 

S- I'll do some research on protective sprays. 

B- Large-scale net users might not want to mess with such a product, 
but folks like me might find it useful. In my case, Avinet's U.S.-made 
nets stay strong much longer than J-nets, but they do tend to fade.

S- The webbing is the same in Avinets USA made nets and our 
Japanese made nets.  You are probably noticing the difference 
between polyester and nylon.  Polyester is much more resistant to UV 
degradation. 
  Is fading per se so bad? Has anyone done a study on 
the visiblity to birds of black vs a lighter color?  Norm Hogg intended 
to do just such a long term study but unfortunately he died before the 
experiments were started.  Look at a webbing strand at various angles 
under sunlight with a medium power magnifier. Notice a highlight that 
produces contrast on the high ("dorsal") side?  Through natural selection 
some animals are said to reduce this attention-getting contrast wth 
countershading. Well, countershading a mist net would be a daunting goal, 
but might not an overall neutral or average reflectivity, of 18% reduce 
contrast and thus be less visible to birds?  For now we offer mists nets 
in black because it is widely believed to be the best color.  At this time I don't 
have an opportunity to conduct experiments that may demonstrate that 
black is not the best color for mist nets.

B- I've tried re-dyeing nets with RIT dye, but it didn't work all that well; 
such might be the case for what I'm suggesting.

S- A long time ago there was a net dying thread on BIRDBAND 
that mentioned RIT, so I tried it. It seemed to lay a thick coating of pigment 
mostly on the surface of the nylon. It made a mess. 

B- Cheers,

BILL

S- Thanks Bill

Follow up note: Since writing the above,  I did some research on 
UV blocking fabric treatments and found a new product called 
Rit Sun Guard.  You treat your clothes with it, and it is supposed 
to protect you from harmful UV radiation.  Will it protect your nets 
from ultraviolet radiation damage?  I don't know and RIT, so far, 
has not replied to my inquiries. I haven't found it in the stores yet. 
And since I don't band birds, I don't have the time to keep an eye 
on a set up net for a season. I also found some other industrial 
strength chemical UV blocking treatments available to professionals 
(commercial fabric treaters and manufacturers,) but don't have 
samples to try at this time.
15 Aug 2001

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"Although Screech Owls will get caught in 38mm, I like 60mm 
best--especially if the bander wants to avoid having to take bats 
out of the net at night. ...." 

Bill Hilton, Jr.

Top
 

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Where can I get a band color sequence generator?

Graciously provided by Al Sherkow

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Hi Scott 

Ever since we started Avinet we have looked for 
telescoping poles that would be suitable for mist nets 
but never found any that would be perfect.  I'll keep 
looking.  Meanwhile, check these out.

Wonderpole

-s-

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Where can  I get Potter traps?

D. R. Meyer
42782 County Rd 14 
P O Box 15 
Big Fork, MN 
56628-0015 

J. A. IM-BROGNO (20938)
22 WESTMORELAND DRIVE
MONESSEN, PA 15062
(724) 684-8116 

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What are your special UV resistant rubber bands used for?

For trammels to all have the same tension they need to be
the same length.  Also the net poles need to be perfectly
parallel to each other.  If both conditions are not met, some
trammels will sag.  After long use even the trammels on our
USA made nets will stretch, leaving some longer than others,
depending on how you use them.  Inexpensive nets may
start out with some trammels a little longer than others. 
Banders may have difficulty setting their poles perpendicular
to the ground. 

So banders have employed a number of remedies to compensate. 
Some use ordinary rubber bands which deteriorate rapidly in
days when exposed to UV light.  Other banders cut rubber bands
from inner tubes which last longer but are a hassle to make.  We
decided to have some custom made for your convenience. Simply
loop the bands through existing loops on short trammels ends
and over the poles.  If you need more compensation range, use
rubber bands on both ends of your trammels.  If you are using
USA nets you can attach the bands directly to the plastic
trammel rings.

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Where can I get 25 foot tall "macro net poles"?

Dave S. Johnston

djohnston@harveyecology.com

20616 Brookwood Lane

Saratoga, CA 95070

Dave's pictures

macropoles.pdf

Dave's description:

An Improved Technique to Capture Bats Using Macro Mist Nets

The use of Macro mist nets (6 m or 9 m high x 30 m long) enables
investigators to increase the height and surface area of smaller, more
conventional mist nets.  However, when using macro mist nets, the horizontal
tension on shelf cords is difficult to maintain without losing the ability to
easily lower or raise net shelves.  Current designs are either effective but
expensive and cumbersome (e.g., sailboat masts and track with runners), or do
not easily maintain proper shelf cord tension and maneuverability (pole with
continuous rope and shower curtain rings).  A new design may be purchased
from Dave Johnston for $550 plus shipping.  The poles are 1.5 m long, weigh
24.5 kg, and the pole set-up was tested in 1998 near Tortuguero, Costa Rica
and in 1999 and 2000 at Lamanai, Belize.  Mean installation time = 52 min.,
and mean dismantling time = 50 min. (n = 5 for each). 
Some bats (e.g., Molossus ater  in Lamanai, Belize and
Micronycteris schmidtoroumin Costa Rica) were caught in the macro net but
not caught in smaller (3 m x 18 m and 2 m x 6 m) mist nets.  The macro net
caught more bats per hour per area under tall closed canopies, but not along 
open roads, paths, or in meadows.  The combined use of macro and
smaller-sized nets maximized the number of species and individuals caught.

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What’s the difference between celluloid and Darvic color bands?

The big advantage of celluloid bands is the ease with which you can
seal them (with acetone). They also hold their “memory” a bit better
than Darvic. Unfortunately, the U.K. manufacturer of celluloid is going
out of business, and one by one, the celluloid colors are becoming
unavailable. We will continue to order as many celluloid bands as we
can, for as long as we can. Yellow and white are no longer available
and we will discontinue those celluloid colors when supplies are exhausted.
The disadvantage of celluloid, aside from unavailability, is the tendency
for the colors to fade over time. Darvic is the trade name for un-plasticized
PVC, which is dyed with colorfast dyes and is UV resistant. That’s
the number one advantage of Darvic bands. It is possible to seal
Darvic bands with plumber's UPVC Solvent Cement, which uses
methyl ethyl ketone as a solvent to partially dissolve the plastic to form
a bond. Acetone will not work on Darvic bands and Superglue (tm) is
unsuitable because it does not work by solvent action1. For the
strongest bond, you may melt the seam of the Darvic band shut,
using a small portable soldering iron. (Thanks to Nils Warnock of
PRBO for his guidance with Darvic band issues). Darvic bands are a
bit more brittle than celluloid bands. Darvic colors are more vibrant
than celluloid colors; between the two materials you may get quite
different shades of the same color. Light blue and light green, for example,
are much lighter in Darvic than they are in celluloid.
Important note: Store leg bands at or under 110°F (43°C)
or bands will lose curvature and break.
Do not leave leg bands in your hot vehicle!

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